Question regarding redgaurd

Ok I have 1350sqft of flooring needed to be done the subfloor is concrete. I am using a heavy porcelain Cerdomus Angkor Oro 20x20,13x20,6.5x6. 5 modular pattern.

-Is coating the concrete floors with redgaurd before tiling necessary or overkill?
-Also what kind of thinset should I use on the floors? I have access to tile stores not just big box stores.

I am also doing 3 bathrooms one of them has a tub shower the other two are showers with pans and the master has a garden tub as well.
My idea was to buy durock and seal it with redgaurd from what I have been reading on here.

-What kind of thinset needs to be used in the bathroom with the same type of heavy porcelain?
-When using redgaurd does it need to applied to just the walls or do you apply it to the shower pan as well?
-Is the redgaurd on the durock enough to stop the water or do I need more?
-How do I waterproof the garden tub?

Is coating the concrete floors with redgaurd before tiling necessary or overkill?

It probably isn't necessary.

Also what kind of thinset should I use on the floors?

You should use a thinset meeting ANSI 118.4 for the floors and walls.

My idea was to buy durock and seal it with redgaurd from what I have been reading on here.

.

That's fine. Just follow the manufacturer's instructions for each product you use.

When using redgaurd does it need to applied to just the walls or do you apply it to the shower pan as well?

You're better off having a shower pan liner put in. Check out the Noble site for more info. Don't forget the preslope.

http://www.noblecompany.com/Products/ShowerProducts/tabid/59/Default.aspx

Is the redgaurd on the durock enough to stop the water or do I need more?

RedGard will waterproof the surface of the Durock.

What do you think about the dix system for a shower pan? It looked really easy to install and really durable except idk where to buy it.

How much does redgard cost? How many coats should I use? How much time in b/n coats for drying time and how long to cure before I can tile? Thanks a lot!

Ok I decided to cancel the redgard and use poly behind the durock b/c I hear its cheaper and just as good if not better. If I have a shower and I am tiling on the ceiling how do I install the 6mil poly?

-When I nail it to the studs doesn't that make holes how do I prevent that?
-The edges where the poly overlaps each other do I just leave them loose or seal them together with something tape etc?
-When I run the poly do I run it horizontaly or verticaly against the studs?
-How do I run it on the ceiling?

My thoughts on all this redgard stuff. Dont go to all the trouble just go get a roll of stormguard from HD in the roofing section its got a self self adhesive backing and it self seals when nailed or screwed threw. Just put it up first overlapping the seams by 1 or 2 inches even in the corners and hang the durock and if you want to get some tub caulk and seal the screw heads and joints and hang your tile will last four lifetimes. These are my thoughts and is what im doing. Forget all that taping joints and sealing and waiting for sealer to dry. Ahhhh work smarter not harder.

Yow, forget all the industry recommendations. Forget there are written standards and proven methods and time and money spent on research and development. Who needs all that crap. Just listen to these shade-tree guys and they'll get you through it and a lot cheaper too. These guys know what's best. You can do it - they can help.

What a pitiful mess some people are! Anybody that listens to that above crap deserves what they get.

Aw Bud.
Dont hold back, tell us what you REALLY think!
LOL!
I deal with the results of the kind of thinking that cuts corners every day as tech support for a radiant flooring company. Do it according to the specs. You wont have to do it over that way

Amen!

Some people are just stuck in that box and cant get out! Trying to figure out why a 6mil poly is better than a rubber leak barrier thats abut 4 times thicker, behind durock. Hmmm got me there also it seems that when you screw up the durock, then it would make some sense that the rubber leak barrier seals around the screw. Not poly! So now lets try to figure out why we need to water proof the durock with that redgard that might peel off if not applied right. O yea industry standards almost forgot! So I believe that all we might have to do know is seal our seams and screw heads. But we could you 6 inch mesh tape and mud them but we better watch out for the speed bumps.

RedGard is cheap insurance under the tile, use one of Customs (118.4) mortars and get a warranty. Poly behind a cement board is fine.

Romex Jockey, Do you use baby oil in you car because you believe it has the same properties as motor oil? There is a reason manufactures reccomend particular methods. In the case of Wonderboard, (1.5) billion feet installed with out a single issue of a system failure and 40+ years of installations that are still perfect.

I'll try the rubber leak barrier next time I replace shingles, as long as the shingle manufacturer recognizes it as acceptable and does not void the warranty.

Well for one thing I was talking about durock and also I dont believe that a rubber leak barrier made by gaf would void any warranty. And it seems to me that the reason for the redgard is to waterproof and thats what the rubber leak barrier is made for hmmm. And remember I did say to seal the seams and screw heads. With a good silicone tub caulk. I would believe if you did all that and did a nice tile job and seal all your grout then I cant believe you would ever get any water or moisture in your walls. But what do I know. I use water for gas! HAHAHAHHAHA

I wanted to get my butt outa here but I saw you rascals dukin it out, know I've been doing this for over 20 yrs & here in CO. The old tub surraunds with nothing but reg. Old sheetrock were lasting 10 & fifteen yrs so green boards a step up & with a good & close eye on your calking joint the things gonna last for a damn long time! & I'm not saying thats optimum but the thing that failed in the old nothings was the backerboard itself so unless your doing a steamer frickin get over yourselves heck if your useing durock as your backerboard there's not going to be any failures! Best though to keep & eye on your caulking joints hense everything is custom these days & custom colored caulks aren't pure silicon.
Those shadytree guys may have something on you guys,Time! Forget the red gaurd for a regular shower you blowin your money, sure It's something extra to charge the customer for but hey what works is what works & each indevidual situation is diff.
I'm Sean Dog & I do know what I'm talkinbout!

You dont think that Durock is waterproof do ya?
Water runs right through it. Mold will be growing in the wall in no time. If you dont use a Vapor Barrier behind the wall board you SURE better use one on it.
Also you do know that Green Board has been removed from the Building Codes for use in wet areas do to mass failurs. Ya might want to stay on the porch.

---or under it!

"The old tub surraunds with nothing but reg. Old sheetrock were lasting 10 & fifteen yrs"

Maybe they used the old time solvent based mastics?

Or maybe the stooge that wrote that was drunk

You know guys I can understand getting defensive about your beliefs, let's take cosiderations of the area I mean is it a steamer, bench seat, my god I just got done repairing this gentlmens shower bench and ofcoarse when I was ripping it out it had no waterproofing whatsoever plus whoever framed the remodel used wafer board, talk about a major blow up!
The whole custom shower door CO. Had to come back & R&R the deal? My 20 yrs experience in the field (tile, stone) tells me that really you should use the multi purpose thin set on other than slab concrete but really I bellieve in a good chorloy or I guess poly if thats whtcha got, you really shouldn't rely on some topical coating although- see in a steamer I do? But after durock & fiber tape installed with multi thin set I put two coats on and really watch close to make sure there's not any holes. You know if your just doing a simple shower there's really no need to mess with red guard and see who was that person who was talking about red guard on some basement floor? Geese Louise if you have a little moisture lets try & remember that thinset's are good in wet area's, money aside when I was down in florida where everybody & there sister has a pool All the guys down there set there tiles that were submeresed in a good multipurpose thinset & so if any body wants truthful answers on anything just give me a shout, thanx, S. O.