schulter

Does anyone have any thoughts about the schulter shower pan system? The + and -'s. I am thinking of using one on my 2nd floor over 1 inch plywood.

Schluter: S-C-H-L-U-T-E-R!

There are no minuses with any of the Schluter products. GO FOR IT.

Ok, thanks

Enjoy! You won't be sorry you used Schluter.

It is a great system. The drain component alone is worth the price they charge. Bud, have you had any problems with the actual pan being too soft? I find my knees make indentations in it while I'm putting up the Kerdi.

No reported problems as yet but I am holding my breath on one shower in particular that I did last winter. I did an inspection there several weeks ago and I have concerns.

What "concerns" may I ask?

I was called-back after about seven months because some caulk had failed along one wall. Can't explain that either, it was really weird. While there I noticed some floor grout deteriorating in a couple of spots and re grouted the floor while I was there.

In my opinion the grout had failed due to some slight movement in exactly the location this guy would step into his shower daily. This customer is about six foot four and weighs about three hundred pounds. I used 2X2 porcelain tiles.

I'll check it again this spring to see how it is doing. Hopefully this was just some kind of a fluke. If it turns out I have to replace the floor it will be my first job-failure in over thirty years.

I thought they wanted epoxy grout with 2x2s and smaller?

I thought they wanted epoxy grout with 2x2s and smaller?

First I've heard of that! Maybe I should take a refresher course. I'm not seeing where epoxy grout would make any difference in the case of two-inch tiles. Epoxy grout wouldn't change anything in this case as far as I can see.

Took their seminar last year and there was never a mention of epoxy grout. Only time 2x2s were mentioned was when Ditra came up.

Zactly my thoughts.

My knees left indentations to steping in and out of this pan bites watch for small chips of tile to puncture pan. Watch for air pockets or no adhesion to kerdi on walls or dam. The dam is not pitched with the schulter system this will cause you dam to leak water outside the shower or puddle aginst your shower door. Removing or replacing a piece of tile in a schulter will rip your kerdi and destroy your pan and there is really good way to patch it. My personal opion is a chorloy pan is the best way to build a shower. $450 dollars is way to much money to pay for foam and chessy kerdi. Old school pans are best 30 years exp don't buy schulter pan systems I can go on with more problems they have in there pan system. Ron baker tlie

Ron,

If you can't spell the name "Schluter" and you can't spell the word "tile", how are we expected to believe you can read the instructions that come with the products you are bashing and produce a proper installation?

While your at it you might run a Spell Check on these also:

Steping
chorloy
Chessy
opion
There

Bud,

"There" is going to confuse him until the new year.

Ron,

The fact that your knee left an impression is not relevant. Once covered with tile the weight is spread out and will not be a factor. The dam is not pitched on purpose cuz some people would install it backwards. You make your own pitch with the thinset, 1/8" is more than enough.

"Air pockets or no adhesion." Do it right and all will be well, as in any method.

Removing a tile. This is not as likely to be necessary since the entire shower will be waterproof and watertight. If you ever have to though, it might compromise your membrane if you're rough. I don't see how you damage the base though. The membrane can be patched easily.

Having said the above, I have no plans on using the trays myself unless I had a bunch of standard sized shower to do in a project. You are missing the boat by poo-pooing the entire system simply because you don't like the tray. The trays are nice but not the best part of the Kerdi system.

The secret is the Kerdi drain, because it allows us to place the waterproofing membrane on the surface of the deck mud therefore the mud base never gets saturated as in the "old school" method. YUCK!

Jaz

Dont go and pick on the "old school" method, its been done before most of ya new what tile was>>We came out with Chloraloy in 1964 and I can say it has never failed! When installed the right way it does not hold water.
We also make a surface applied membrane and in fact, Nobleseal TS has been on the market longer the Kerdi. Two different methods. We warrent them both for the life of the original installation. (I think kerdi is 5 year) Using Nobleflex Drain flashing you can use any drain you want with a surface applied membrane.

Yes Eric, we know the old school method will work well if done right. The problem is almost no one does it right. I have never seen a pre-slope in any of the showers I have removed, (many dozens) nor in any shower being built by some one else.

I have spoken to several tile contractors who claim they try to convince the builder/owner to remove the improperly installed membrane. Sometimes they succeed, usually not. There needs to be more education on how to build a shower. I suggest we start with the building department inspectors many of whom don't know or don't care how to build a mold-free shower.

Jaz

With that said, if a surface applied membrane (noble,schluter,laticrete,ect.) is also installed flat, not following the written directions and industry guidlines you have the same problem.
In must case the mold is not do to the pan, its the food source on the tile and in the grout. Mold Free is a maintainance issue.