DITRA or Hardi

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Name: Indecisive
Posted: Thu, Jul 17, 2008 at 5:29 pm MST
 
Topic
I have a very small (25 square foot) half bathroom. I already bought 12 by 12 inch ceramic tile and cannot make a decision about what to put underneath, DITRA or Hardi (or any other suggestions)! Right now it's just the subfloor. What is the easiest to install? Can you really cut Hardi with a blade and then just snap it or is it more difficult than that? Also, how do you cut DITRA? What's the easiest and best choice for a first time DIY tile project? I've been procrastinating for weeks because I'm not really sure what to do!
Name: Bud Cline
Posted: Thu, Jul 17, 2008 at 6:03 pm MST
 
Reply: 1
I'll direct your attention to the availability aspect of what you are pondering.

Unless you have a special source DITRA is available in a 64 square foot roll. I think it's 64. That's the smallest quantity readily available unless you can find a supplier that will sell it by the square foot. The cost is around $1.50 per square foot. The effectiveness of DITRA in such a small application would be questionable. DITRA easily cuts with scissors or a utility knife and would offer some waterproofing qualities. (waterproofing is not really needed tho.)

Hardiebacker comes in 3'X5' sheets and is readily available. Two sheets will equal 30 square feet. The cost per square foot will be around (0.69) cents per. Hardie may be a little more difficult to cut but it can be scored and broken and in your case the cuts required will be minimal.

Both products MUST be installed with thinset underneath. Hardie also requires nails or screws, DITRA does not.

Twenty-five square feet of DITRA will weigh about two pounds, Hardie will weigh around 70 pounds.

These are your considerations. The product choice is yours.
Name: Indecisive
Posted: Thu, Jul 17, 2008 at 6:11 pm MST
 
Reply: 2
Thanks Bud. Because it is such a small space and water isn't a concern can I just lay the tiles on the subfloor? That's how the old ones that I just tore up were installed.
Name: Bud Cline
Posted: Thu, Jul 17, 2008 at 6:21 pm MST
 
Reply: 3
Depends!

Now there's a third option being considered? That wasn't mentioned before.grin

What is the subfloor made of? How thick is it?
Name: Indecisive
Posted: Thu, Jul 17, 2008 at 6:32 pm MST
 
Reply: 4
There is a reason my name is indecisive lol! On the basement ceiling I can read APA 24oc Exposure 1 so I'm assuming this is what is on the bottom of the entire first floor. Not sure if that helps. I also don't know how thick the floor is. How could I figure that out without cutting into it? Do you have a 4th option for me to think about too?!
Name: Bud Cline
Posted: Thu, Jul 17, 2008 at 7:36 pm MST
 
Reply: 5
Do you have a heat vent in the floor? A little probing around there could reveal the floor thickness.

How about the top step on the stairs to the basement? You can sometimes tell subfloor thickness in that area.

The thing is, most subfloors will be constructed to the minimum which is generally 5/8" of subfloor thickness. It could be more. DITRA is rated for use over 5/8" plywood t&g subfloor which is what you have. Hardiebacker offers no structural compliments and may not be the best idea in that case.

Installing tile directly to plywood can be done but isn't suggested for a novice and the minimum subfloor thickness in that case would be 1-1/8". Then there is the floor joist spacing. What is the floor joist spacing?
Name: Indecisive
Posted: Thu, Jul 17, 2008 at 8:00 pm MST
 
Reply: 6
The subfloor thickness seemed to be 6/8" but I'm assuming it is 5/8. The floor joist spacing is 16" in the house except for under the bathroom where it is 12". Every other joist under the bathroom has 2 stuck right next to each other. So its double joist then 12" space then single joist then 12" space then double joist then 12" space then single joist then it goes back to single joist every 16". I hope this makes sense and helps!
Name: Bud Cline
Posted: Thu, Jul 17, 2008 at 8:19 pm MST
 
Reply: 7
OK got it! The bathroom must be in the center of the house.grin

Anyway back to the initial question.

The choice is yours as to which product to use but I wouldn't recommend tiling directly to the plywood, use a tilebacker of some kind. I think the Hardie will be more cost effective (less expensive and less waste) and with the 12" joist-centers I wouldn't worry about a room that small. Go for it.grin
Name: Kevin
Posted: Fri, Jul 18, 2008 at 7:55 am MST
 
Reply: 8
Hello,

I believe its better to use a tilebacker board. First of all they are light, dont absorb water and they are easy to cut. I found some companies but I am still searching for their distributor. It apparently also perfect to use with heated floor to reduce loss of energy. Look at their website [www.marmoxboard.com]. Should anyone find their distributor or a different product please let me know.
Name: Bud Cline
Posted: Sat, Jul 19, 2008 at 11:15 am MST
 
Reply: 9
Kevin you have stumbled into an Egyption company that doesn't seem to distribute that product in the U. S.

If you want that same product then look up WEDI. It is available in the U. S.

You should know however that not all tilebacker boards are made of plastic and are waterproof. They are also not all light weight. Most do absorb water and most are not easy to cut.

So are you just starting out in your search for tile products?grin

Tell us why you belive it is better to use a tilebacker board. Better than what? What are the alternatives?grin
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