level quick
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Name: Tim
Posted: Mon, Dec 18, 2006 at 10:35 pm MST
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| Topic |
I have used level quick before but still not perfectly flat where the pours come together. I have only used it on concrete but no primer. Could the primer stop this. I have not used any for a couple years I just pop tiles as I go but it is very slow. I just went threw 25 bags of thin set on 1,100 feet with 20's because the concrete is so bad, in some areas the tiles are 3/4" off the concrete but the floor is flat. |
Name: Bill Vincent
Posted: Mon, Dec 18, 2006 at 10:36 pm MST
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| Reply: 1 |
No, the rpimer won't help that. What you need to do is feather the edge of the pour with a finishing trowel. |
Name: Bud Cline Tile Contracting
Posted: Mon, Dec 18, 2006 at 10:39 pm MST
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| Reply: 2 |
There is also a gauged screed available for use with SLC's. Set the gauge for the desired thickness and drag the screed through the SLC immediately after pouring. This will blend the edges of the pours and insure a iniform thickness.  |
Name: Tim
Posted: Mon, Dec 18, 2006 at 10:45 pm MST
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| Reply: 3 |
Do any of you guys pop tile after tile and thin set to raise tiles for flatness. I am not really after leveling tiles just no lips. |
Name: Bill Vincent
Posted: Mon, Dec 18, 2006 at 10:47 pm MST
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| Reply: 4 |
I don't have a problem picking tiles up and buttering them, but not THAT high! You butter thinset 3/4" thick, and you're LUCKY if you don't come back the next day to find all that thinset purged back up thru the grout joint and all over the face of the tile! |
Name: Tim
Posted: Tue, Dec 19, 2006 at 9:22 am MST
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| Reply: 5 |
I make my thin set very stiff and throw a couple hand fulls of silicon sand and no sag. |
Name: Dave Gobis
Posted: Tue, Dec 19, 2006 at 1:44 pm MST
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| Reply: 6 |
Tim if you want a medium bed mortar you should really buy one. Your looking for trouble making your own. Maybe it works for you so far but I can assure you, it does not work for many. No tile police though, do as you wish. |
Name: Rd Tile
Posted: Tue, Dec 19, 2006 at 3:19 pm MST
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| Reply: 7 |
Tim, take it from the Lieutenant, or should I say Captain, I'm just a beat cop.  |
Name: Tim
Posted: Tue, Dec 19, 2006 at 9:03 pm MST
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| Reply: 8 |
So you are telling me dont go that high because of thin set shrinking? |
Name: Darrell
Posted: Sat, Dec 22, 2007 at 4:08 am MST
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| Reply: 9 |
I use a 24" squegee and the trick is to make your leveler just right this feathers your edges then I trowel over the uneven area. |
Name: Pat Cooper
Posted: Sat, Dec 22, 2007 at 9:32 am MST
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| Reply: 10 |
Bud, where can a screed like you're talking about be bought? Also, can slc be used in place of backer board? I know it's used over floor heating wire. It almost seems as though this would be easier to apply and would not raise the floor as much as useing a backer board. |
Name: Bljack
Posted: Sat, Dec 22, 2007 at 10:36 am MST
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| Reply: 11 |
Pat, slc's over plywood have a minimum thickness of pour and need to be installed over lath, too. Figure 3/8 to 1/2". You're better off in that case with 1/4" cbu then you could prime, pour and feather edge the slc if you need to. Using an slc is also much more expensive, given the minimum thickness of the pour, you are looking at almost $2.50 sf and what, another 50-75 cents sf for every 1/8" over the 3/8". |
Name: John B
Posted: Wed, Oct 7, 2009 at 1:55 pm MST
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| Reply: 12 |
I make my own screeds with a 1 x 3 and a broom handle. I fasten broom handle bracing, cut the 1 x 3 to about 3 feet or 4 feet depending on what you're trying to level. Then put screws in the edge of the screed to whatever height of leveler you're shooting for. Then as you're pouring you can use the screed for moving material around and flattening and flip the tool over and test the depth. With some practice you can get remarkably good with this. |
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