Tiling over linoleum?

Folks, this is my first post, but I have read through most on here as I am tiling a bathroom floor, with another room waiting. I tore the linoleum up in my bathroom, then spent the next few hours scrapping the adhesive and paper backing up. I then went to Lowes to pick up some supplies and asked the gentleman in the flooring section if there was an easy way to remove the adhesive and paper back other than a little muscle. He told me I didn't have to tear up the linoleum and just lay hardibacker over it. Is this correct? I would like to know before I start my other room.

Also, just looking for opinions here, is it better to double up on the wax rings, or put in a flange extender when making up the difference (1/2-3/4") between the tile and current flange? Is there any definite pros and cons to either.

Sorry for length of this post, and thank you advance for any assistance given.

Take up the linoleum and never ask for advice at the box store again, some do know what has to be done, 99% don't.

I've never used an extender or had to yet, so don't know of any issues with them, I use a thicker wax ring with the horn and add a smaller thin one without the horn if I need it.

Toby is there 1/4" plywood under that vinyl? If so that also needs to be removed. If so it is easiest to remove it all at the same time then the adhesive and felt backer is a non-issue.

The Lowe's-lurker is a little off base actually.

Extenders are fine but usually not a necessity, it's your money.

RD Tile and Bud Cline are both right in that respect about removing the vinyl sheet and if there is a 1/4" lauan plywood underneath. You just have to be patient in removing the staples or pounding them down flat to the subfloor. Then you can lay the cement board: either one - hardibacker (screw down) or durock (combination of screw down and roofing nails.)

You may want to check your city building code if it is required to install an extender ring almost flushed with the top of the ceramic tile surface. For my personal insurance of confidence of not doing a leak repair or a call back, I install it for that reason. I screw the extender ring to the existing one you have on the floor right now and then place a wax ring with the horn. Good Luck.

Thanks for your quick replies. I thought it strange too that I could leave the linoleum down. I am glad I consulted you guys before I went ahead and laid the hardibacker over it.

Your replies has brought another question to mind. Why is it important to tear up the 1/4"plywood before laying the hardibacker? It seems to be well attached to the subfloor, it's level and the seams have been sealed. Just curious. Again thanks for sharing your knowledge with this do it yourselfer.

1/4" plywood is too unstable, it can delaminate and shouldn't be anywhere in the mix.

Toby, read your other post, where Upstate are you?

What about installing ceramic tiles over vinyl tiles that are really down good with that black mastic? Can I I just use the thinset right over it? Is there something easier than a hammer and 1" chisel to take the tiles up? I spent 3 nights after work getting one bathroom floor up and I hate to do it again unless I just have to. Thanks for your help.

RD Tile, I am in Erie PA, if that is what you were asking. Why do you ask? Are you local to me?

Again thanks for everyone's help and advice. I think I just may be ready to complete this project.

I had linoleum on my kitchen floor.
What I did is the following.
I took some sand paper and sanded down the linoleum.
Then I mixed some concrete and covered the linoleum
With concrete.

Once the concrete was dry then I put the cement on
The floor and put the ceramic tile over the cement.
I waited 24 hours for the cement to dry and grouted
The tile.

It has now been 6 years since I did my kitchen this
Way and the tile is as good as new.

And you consider yourself an Expert, what a joke, have a nice day, maybe play lotto, your very lucky.

Hey guys some great info in this topic. Just curious about tiling over a steel trap in my bsmt floor. I've been told there is a type of primer that can be applied to make the cement bond to it. I've also been told by someone in a box store that I shouldn't tile over it for safety reasons.

Any advice would be appreciated, Thanks!

Epoxy thinset (tile adhesive) is the only product I know of that will allow you to apply tile to steel.

I'd be curious to know what THOSE "safety reasons" are.

Home depot has a peel and stick sub-tile material that is guaranteed to prevent tile cracks over floor joists. Stickit right to the linoleum. Works fantastic, clean and saves hours. Contact Home Depot for info

Geoffrey, what if the lino is loose? What if there are numerous layers of lino? What if the lino is an interflex (perimeter glued)? What if the subfloor under the lino is particle board? These are just a few of the possibilities that would render this product useless.

Geoffrey you are exactly the type of person the makers of that product hope to find: Foolish and unknowing! stay away from that crap. Especially in this type of application.

Double

Geoffrey is a shill, prolly a new hire by the company making that crap