Stupid Backer-On screws!

I can't get the!#@$% backer-on screws (specially made for Hardibacker boards, by the way) to set properly into the board. The head always sticks up slightly.

I know I can use galvanized roofing nails instead, but I'd rather be able to use the screws. Anyone know of a way I can do it without ruining 50 drill bits?

Your not the only one, use 1 1/2" roofing nails you'll be fine.

Home Depot and Loew's sell the Rock-on Screws for the backerboard. I myself have gotten tired of making sure I have enough bits for said boards. You can find that H. D. And Loew's sell's these screws in a square bit drive. I haven't broke a bit, or stripped a screw. I also haven't had the problem of the screws sticking up. As a plus, you also get a bit in the box.

Actually, I WAS using the ones made for Hardibacker (Rock-Ons with the enclosed bit). They still would not fully seat in the board.

Sorry, not Rocker-Ons - I meant Backer-Ons.

I use screws, put them in with a sheetrock phillips tip. When flush the tip will spin out. Some screw heads will break off, depending on wood hardness. If you still have difficulty, back the screw out a little and rescrew. Should seat then.
Son

Chris,
I am doing a foyer 5'x6', not a big job
And had the same problem as you. Using 1/4
Hardibacker and #9 Rock On screws from Lowe's,
Even though Hardibacker instruction book call's
For #8 screws. I'm screwing into plywood and
They wouldn't go flush. I used some roof nails
Also but dont like them either.
I solved the problem by using a carbide 82 degree
Countersink. After the countersink, just deep enough
To bury the screw head, I drill a 3/32 hole just
Through the board and a little into the plywood.
I am a machinist so I have access to a carbide
Countersink. I guess you could get one at Sears?
I now used deck screws and took the other ones
Back to Lowes for a refund. Good Luck.

Hi

The building supply store gave me regular drywall screws with a phillips head to install cement board. There was an odd one that didn't WANT to go flush, but I just backed it up a bit, and would get it the second or third time. I also found that the cordless drill just did not have the power to sink them, so I went to the regular plug in drill.

In any case, I only broke one bit in a 12X8 area, and I wasn't terribly carefull. Still, I haven't done this before, so purhaps there is some reason not to use drywall screws? I couldn't think of one, and they seemed to work well.

I went back and exchanged the Backer-Ons for Rock-Ons, and when I manually screw them in I can almost get them to sit flush. The head just barely sits above the board. Will the the thinset layer for the tiles help to cover this up enough?

If not I'll just use roofing nails.

Yes.

If the head of the screw show a litle is ok because you are using thin set to put in the tiles. These thin set will be level and the screw will not damage anything? I saw some peiople using roofing nail.

Cis

Sorry for being so late, but. Someone may benefit.
Ideally, you should get the screws flush or slightly recessed. I've tried the Rock-On with philips tips, but ended up breaking a lot of tips. I actually prefer the square drive hardibacker screws; I've bent, but have never broken a square drive tip. I've been using an 18V DeWalt drill on LOW speed to torque the little bastards in; it does work well, just make sure you apply a lot of weight on top of the drill. It's important not to strip the bits, because once they start stripping, it's best to replace them. So, bottom line. Low speed, lots of torque, lots of downforce, lots of spare bits, and PATIIENCE. Do it right the first time. You'll be glad you did.

GregO

I too experienced the same frustration. Since my instalation was a bit large (2000 sq ft) I found an alaternate method that works well. I use a 3/4" crown staple at 1-1/2 inch length. My Botick air gun drove them with no problem. Note longer staples may not fully penitrate and 1/4" crown staples may pull through. Be sure to thinset between the Hardiboard and subfloor, a 1/8-3/32 notched trowlis good, for bewst results.

I hope the staples hold.

FYI - Hardibacker does NOT warranty this installation method (staples). They warranty 1 1/2 inch galv. Or stainless steel roofing nails and the screws spoken about above. See the warranty info. At [www.hardibacker.com]. I try to follow the manufacturers installation method whenever possible. The nails go very quickly through hardi. And the heads don't break off like the screws.

My 2 cents regarding hardi BB and those pesky green-boxhead screws.

I agree with Grego, use a lot of vertical force and a stronger screw gun. I personally went to my chord screw gun -- work as good as expected. YES, some of the screws prutrude maybe 1/32", but the thinset will absorb that -- no big deal. And one more thing, MAKE SURE THEY GO IN STRAIGHT!

A trick that works with the square drive screws is to use the supplied square bit with a 1/4 inch hex socket on a 3/8 drive rachet to apply that last bit of torque if needed. The rachet wrench or a carbenters brace easily drive them down flush.

N-O-R-M-M-M-M! Five years late!