Latex Modified Thinset
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Name: Ed W
Posted: Sat, May 10, 2003 at 4:32 pm MST
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Can someone provide me with some BRAND specific examples of latex modified thinsets that I can use to install porcelan tile on my concrete slab - brand names? I removed the old linoleum and removed a significant amount of black mastic that coated the concrete (using Jasco ahdesive remover). There is currently still some remaining black mastic on the concrete that I haven't removed yet (it's difficult). Folks on this board suggested that I just use a latex modified thinset (siince it will adhere to the mastic), but I've had a terrible time finding it (I'm in Northern California). The local tile shop recommended Laticrete 253 Gold - White color, but this product doesn't say that it is latex modified (it's polymer modified) so I don't know if it will work over concrete with some remaining black mastic. My assumption is that the slab would have to be free of all the mastic to since it appears to be an oil base product unless I use a modified latex thinset. Can someone provide me with some BRAND specific examples of latex modified thinsets that I can use to install porcelan tile on my concrete slab - brand names, or do you think the product I have above will work? Thanks for any and all suggestions! |
Name: Bill Vincent
Posted: Sat, May 10, 2003 at 8:31 pm MST
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The 253 not only IS latex modified, but also one of the better "add water" modified thinsets around. Another one would be Hydroment's Single Flex or Reflex. Mapei's Ultra flex is another. As for thinsets with additive, my favorites are either Mapei's Keralastic/Kerabond, or Hydroment's Tilemate/Flexalastic. |
Name: E3
Posted: Sat, May 10, 2003 at 8:34 pm MST
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To many to name. A polymer mod. Is the same thing. Should state on the bag meets ansi-118.4 |
Name: Ed W
Posted: Sat, May 10, 2003 at 9:46 pm MST
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Thanks for your replies. I guess I was paranoid being a newbie to tile installation. According to the data sheet for this product the Laticrete meets ANSI A118. 4 and (118.11). I was concerned because the bag didn't say latex - didn't realize it was the same thing AND because the directions say floor should be free of "dirt, oil, grease,." etc. I assumed that black mastic would be considered like dirt, oil or grease. One other question. I am transitioning to a garage on one end and carpet at the other on this slab tile job. I bought a beveled aluminum bar for this - tile lays over part, the bevel end is showing. Would you screw or nail or use something else to adhere the metal before tiling? Thanks! |
Name: Bill Vincent
Posted: Sun, May 11, 2003 at 6:23 am MST
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The tile will hold it in place. |
Name: Some Guy
Posted: Sat, Feb 26, 2005 at 3:06 pm MST
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I had the same latex 253 question. Thanks for asking. |
Name: Guruprasad
Posted: Tue, Mar 22, 2005 at 9:05 pm MST
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Hi, Ultraflex II from Lowe's from a brand name called Mapei seems to be the best of all the thinsets available in the construction Industry which is polymer modified and ANSI (118.4) certified with all warrantees. To remove those greesy black mastic, there is a product available in Lowe's called Keraclean and is also the brand name called Mapei. It should work for all your needs. Thanks |
Name: Bud Cline Tile Contracting
Posted: Tue, Mar 22, 2005 at 9:14 pm MST
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Name: Rd Tile
Posted: Tue, Mar 22, 2005 at 9:15 pm MST
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Hope they figured it out by now, this was 2 years ago.   Oh and by the way, no chemical strippers to remove any glue, where you plan on retiling.  |
Name: David
Posted: Mon, Aug 28, 2006 at 5:42 pm MST
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Having been a ceramic tile contractor for many years, I have to agree that Mapei's Ultraflex II is a great product. However, I think Hydroment's modified Thinset is even better to work with. Like mapei, it mixes well and is clearly a quality mix, but the Hydroment feels even better on the trowel. It is usually harder to find as well, so the Mapei may be your only option. If so, no worries, go with Mapei. As for cheaper/generic modified thinsets, I have had mixed results when forced to use them. Some are clearly low quality, and I have little confidence in their holding tile WELL for many years. With the excetion of Laticrete which I would use in a pinch, I would only use them to apply my subfloor (1/2" Durock or 1/4" Hardibacker only) without much concern for the life of the floor. That's right, in a flooring or weight bearing situation, you have to thinset and screw or roofing nail your subfloor down (paying special attention to getting the joints low and level), and fiberglass tape the joints, or you are asking for trouble. A lot of "professionals" forget or don't realize this, and just screw it down. What a hack job. For tile work get a tile man, not an "I can do it all" guy, or those kind of oversights happen throughtout the job. So let's face it, if you are going to do all that work, and in your case, all the learning as well, you should spend the $ in the right places to assure your work is not in vain. Use quality thinset/mastic and subfloor/backerboard and your tile has the best chance of holding up till your wife feels like changing it. Just kidding. Good luck. And if the doubt keep adding up as they truly may, call a professional. Dave |
Name: Ed W
Posted: Mon, Aug 28, 2006 at 5:50 pm MST
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Wow, three years later and myt thread still gets action - lol. I made several mistakes on that floor, but fortunately none turned about to be fatal since the floor is solid and has been trouble free. 1st mistake was I used a chemical stripper to remove the balck adhesive. I eventually was able to clean it enough to where I must have removed all the stripper because adhesion has never been an issue. 2nd mistake was I grouted the perimeter. Argg. I started to remove it with my dremel and the special removal attachment. What a mess. I probably removed 6 feet of the 30 and then gave up. It was taking too long and I lost my patience. I thought about mistake number one and said, if it's going to fail because of #1, I'm not removing all this with a Dremel. It hasn't failed and I've had no problems. Even in earthquake country (CA). Thanks for all your help guys (especially Bill who I spoke to once about another home project where I was going to set tile over plywood - which still hasn't been started. Anyway, when I get to that one, I'll come back and post my questions. |
Name: Bud Cline Tile Contracting
Posted: Mon, Aug 28, 2006 at 5:52 pm MST
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Good advice Dave but you have latched onto a thread that is more than a year old, any particular reason for that?  |
Name: David
Posted: Tue, Aug 29, 2006 at 2:58 am MST
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Well, I didn't see that until I had written my 2 cents. By then, I was not about to delete my work. The day I have to replace my work I am quiting. LOL |
Name: Bud Cline Tile Contracting
Posted: Tue, Aug 29, 2006 at 1:32 pm MST
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Point-well-taken.  |
Name: New To Remodeling
Posted: Fri, Apr 4, 2008 at 3:07 pm MST
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| Reply: 14 |
This stuff is still relevant to those of us searching for answers. |
Name: Michael M
Posted: Wed, Apr 30, 2008 at 4:29 am MST
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I second that - I am going to be tiling over black mastic and this thread provided most of the answers I needed.
Thanks for all your help (5 years ago!) |
Name: Ds
Posted: Fri, Jun 5, 2009 at 5:45 am MST
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TEC Sturdiflex or Superflex would be my choices |
Name: Bud Cline
Posted: Fri, Jun 5, 2009 at 2:59 pm MST
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Name: Bud Cline
Posted: Fri, Jun 5, 2009 at 2:59 pm MST
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Name: Bud Cline
Posted: Fri, Jun 5, 2009 at 2:59 pm MST
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Name: Bud Cline
Posted: Fri, Jun 5, 2009 at 3:00 pm MST
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