Tile over Linoleum floor

What is the best way to go about tiling over existing linoleum flooring?

We don't recommend that you apply tile directly to linoleum surfaces but if it is a non-cushioned type you can follow the directions at Installing Ceramic Tile Over Vinyl, Wood, & Concrete.

A better solution (short of removing the linoleum) would be to install a ceramic tile backerboard over the non-cushioned linoleum and tile over that. Make sure that your subfloor complys with the manufacturer's recommendations. If the linoleum is over concrete, a ceramic tile backerboard is not needed. Simply remove the linoleum and tile over the concrete.

Also try searching this site for vinyl+linoleum.

We have the same problem. We have existing OSB subfloor with 1/4" luan and vinyl flooring over that. Would it be OK to install backerboard over the vinyl? Thanks for your prompt help. We're supposed to be starting this weekend!

Hello Corinna,

The 1/4" luan and vinyl should be removed first. Then you can install Hardibacker or Schluter Ditra over the OSB assuming it is 3/4" thick and installed over floor joists spaced a maximum of 16" on center.

I have two projects. I have a small half bath with thin
linoleum. Should I pull this linoleum up along with the
Toilet to place the tile?

I also am going to replace my small entry, as well. Same
Type of linoleum. I have never done anything like this,
But I want to try it myself to save money. Is there
Somewhere on the internet to show the steps and materials
Needed to do these projects.

Thank you for your res

See Installing Ceramic Tile Floors.

One product that I have used with good results is called "Full Flex" mortar. It is a latex modified thinset mortar that can be used over an existing vinyl floor provided the flooring is in sound condition and not separated from the subfloor.

My vinyl floor is in very good condition over 3/4" subflooring. I am going to look into the thinset mortars (referred to here) but was wondering if I should dull the floor first before applying (like you do if you want to paint [I do faux painting])?

I first installed directly over lino 8 years ago, and have not encountered any problems. In fact I prefer to install over lino as it provides a good barrier to any movement in the substrate. Granted the lino cannot be a "tension floor" type, meaning it MUST be glued down properly and not just the perimeter. Also it cannot be 'cushioned'--spongy. I used to sand/scuff up the lino prior to installing but have quit that practice for 2-3 years now. I use MAPEI ULTRA-FLEX II thin set. For me it's the best.

I want to tile a small bath. I recently had plumbing work that required a piece of the 20-year old vinyl to be cut out. The vinyl is layed over concrete. This area is now unlevel. The cut-out area is approximately 12" X 12". Would you recommend removing the vinyl or simply leveling the concrete to the existing vinyl and placing the tiles over the vinyl, as is?

I have been searching but yet to find any information on Laying Tile over Floors with exsiting vinyl flooring. I have been told that a method to use is to staple screen material to vinyl/wood floor if it is at least 1" thick and screed poly-thin set mortar over screen. Then grind off any excess ridges with masonry hand grinder and lay tile in new bed of thin set over new area. I am aware that this method will increase the height of the new floor and in some cases this would be appropriate, if not then excisting floor should be taken down to the point that the above mentioned can be done or the use of Hardi-backer board could be used, I guess the question is have you ever used this method of placeing screen and thin set over vinyl flooring and is it safe?

I thought about doing tiling over linoleum however decided to just do the job right by ripping up the old tile. I laid some heavy duty aluminum foil on the floor and took my clothes iron and laid it upon the foil for a few minutes. The old 12 x 12 squares came up beautifully! You might wish to try this.

Hello Brigette,

That is a very good suggestion for removing Peel n' Stick tiles. Sure beats my blow torch method. On the other hand, I might get funny looks taking an iron to work.

Welcome to the forum.

Just wanted to let everyone know that this board is awesome. You guys taught me everything I know! I have now tiled all the counters and backsplash's in my kitchen, installed new counters prior to tiling, installed a new sink and faucet and dishwasher. My second project was the bathroom floor which I did in a day. I am now working on the kitchen floor and dining room floor! I own a wet saw, a hand held wet saw, all the tools and equipment and I have backerboard and plywood laying around my backyard. Makes a girl feel great! My husband just sits around amazed! Thanks again!

Brig

Just embarking on my first tile project. I got a lot of good hints from this site.
About removing peel and stick tiles. I used an iron and brown paper bags for years, then discovered that my hair dryer and a small metal trowel did the job faster. Just heat the corner of the tile, poke the trowel underneath and continue to heat and peel.

This is a great site.
Am learning alot, but I've read that expansion joints are needed in the backerboard at corners and runs greater than 12-15 feet, but I can't seem to find any info on what an expansion joint is!?

Any easy explaination out there?

Thanks!

This is a grout joint with silicone chaulking in it instead of grout.

Nac1

So the expansion joint is in the tile floor, not the backerboard subfloor?
I'm assuming the backerboard and subfloor should act as one solid piece of cement/plywood laminate, and any expansion (movement) of the tile relative to the backerboard is taken up by this expansion joint? With these expansion joints preferentially placed near the center of the biggest areas? Is that correct?

Is this expansion joint one straight grout joint across the whole width of the floor?

Thanks again!

Mike

I myself have never put a expansion joint in tile or the backer board. Only place I would put one would be if there was an expansion joint in the concrete slab. You may get a small hair line crack in the grout joint on a wood floor and backer board installation but it is hard to notice. But a silicone grout joint will stick out like a sore thumb. They do make some chaulks that are suppose to match the grout color but still looks different.

Nac1,

Although I've never really looked, I haven't ever noticed one. And I agree it seems like it would stick out.

The company literature talks about putting them in, but doesn't define them.
My kitchen floor, which will be completely covered in ceramic tile, (once I start), meets alot of the company reasons to use an expansion joint
I.e. Runs greater than 12 feet, lots of corners, and so on.

But it is all a common plywood floor, no step changes, and all joists on 16in centers. I've found some mechanical expansion joint material for use in tile floors on the internet, but I've never seen anything like that in residential work. A local contractor home show is coming up in a few months. Maybe I can wait and see how they did it.

Thanks!

Mike

Today, most of the emphasis on expansion joints is placed on large commercial installations, but the fact is, even small residential floors need, at the very least, an expansion joint around the perimeter of the floor. The accepted industry standards (Taken from EJ171 in the TCA Handbook) require that expansion joints be placed:
1. Wherever there is a change in the backing materials (e.g. A plywood subfloor meeting a concrete slab), or where tile work meets or abuts perimeter walls, curbs, columns, pipes, other penetrations or restraining surfaces.

2. Wherever tile work passes over control, expansion, seismic, cold, construction or other structural joints.

3. Every 24 to 36 ft. In both directions for interior tile work not exposed to moisture or direct sunlight.

4. Every 8 to 12 ft. To interior tile exposed to direct sunlight or moisture.

5. Every 12 to 16 ft. In both directions for exterior tile work.

Dave,

Thanks for the answer, but as with a lot of Tech Standards, they cause me to ask more questions.

'exposed to direct sunlight or mosture'. Does a kitchen with windows count as direct sunlight or moisture? Or are they talking about an indoor pool?
'every 8-12 ft'. Of direct sunlight or continuous tile?
'other structural joints' if there is a structural double header joist down the middle of my kitchen, or the joists change direction in an ajoining room, does that count?

Thanks again!

Hi,

I saw this at home depot today. Never heard of it before. It comes in 40 ft rolles, is much thinner and lighter then backerboard. It says it can be udes with tile in place of backerboard. Has anyone tried this? Is this something you could do over lanoleum or should the lenoleum be removed first? Thanks