Residential Kitchen Tile Backsplash

I'm putting in a ceramic tile backsplash in my kitchen and was wondering if it is OK to forgoe putting up cement backer board? The existing wall behind the counter top is comprised of the standard 1/2" sheet rock. It used to have wall paper on it, but that was removed and is now covered by two or three layers of paint.

I'm using (4.5)" square ceramic tiles that will only go up 15" or so between the counter top and base of the cabinets. I know standard sheetrock absorbs a lot of moisture, so I wanted to start out with a coat of the Trowel and Seal Waterproofing & Anti-Fracture Membrane. Then from there apply the thinset mortar and stick up the tiles.

What do you think?

Thanks,
Bill

If you don't think that this installation will be exposed to a lot of moisture, I would sand and scarify the paint before installing the ceramic tiles using a latex modified thinset mortar. A better option would be to remove the 1/2" drywall and replace it with a vapor barrier covered by a ceramic tile backerboard. Most backsplashes will use maybe 1 - 2 sheets.

Also, remember to caulk any inside and outside corners using a siliconized acrylic latex caulk.

Hi, I think I totally messed up my backsplash. Help! I used broken dishes to make a mosaic type pattern. I am having heck getting the thing grouted. It looks like a big mess. Any suggestions on how to over come this. I'm ready to just take the whole thing down. I used non sanded grout. The thing is the dishes are not flush they protrude. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I'm having the same problem as Tonya (above). I used cracked floor tiles to tile my backsplash. I used a wide variety of sizes and shapes; the grout is too thick in many areas, I think and now the wall is dried and hardened. So, what can I possibly do now?! Should I chisel everything off and start from scratch - using more tile than before or is there another problem I'm missing? HELP! Any suggestions would be VERY much appreciated.

Any grout joint wider than 1/8" needs to be filled with a sanded grout. Not only is it so much easier to install, an un sanded grout will fail if installed in joints greater than 1/8". I can only imagine the difficulty you are going through right now.

Tonya, who told you that tiling a kitchen countertop with the dinnerware was an acceptable practice:? I've had a lot of dishes thrown at me in my time but I never considered tiling my countertop with the pieces. In fact, I have never heard of such a thing. I'm only having fun with you but in your case, I am thinking along the lines of tearing out and replacing the existing installation using the proper tile and materials.

Rain, I feel for you but it may be a little late to repair your predicament. You can try using either a sulfamic or phosphoric acid solution to remove the grout mortar on the face of the tiles. It should eat the grout right off. It is a last resort but may be a better alternative than tearing it out and starting over. You can find these acids in the tile section of your local home improvement warehouse.

Hi, Well I'm not doing it on the countertop, it's for the backsplash. And of course I saw it on tlc. Is there anyway to get the dried grout off of the dishes?

I am no expert on porcelain plates (?) but a sulfamic acid would remove the grout. Unfortunately, some types of glazed porcelain surfaces can be etched by acids. Sulfamic acid is one of the more mild varieties. I would test the acid on a scrap "tile" before proceeding with a full cleanup.

You do know that some porcelain ware contains lead? It doesn't even have to be antique, some imported porcelains contain lead.

For more info on installation, see our countertop pages and Ceramic Tile Backsplashes - Installation Tips

I currently have wood paneling on the backsplash that has been painted over the years.
Just having finished the floor, I am now going to undertake the walls of the backsplash. Do I need to use backerboard? The wood seems to be a good surface and I havent had any water problems with it.
OR. Will it absorb the mastic etc.?

I suggest tearing out the wood paneling and installing a ceramic tile backerboard. Dens-Shield is easy to work with and your tile work will last a long time.

[Edited by Carter on Sun, Mar 2, 2008 at 10:43 pm EST]

Hi,
I just finished a broken tile mosaic backsplash in my kitchen. Before I started, I made a point of reading a lot of the posts on here to learn the do's and don'ts. The project went about as well as a first time project could go.

I ran out of grout, the grout color wasn't 'the perfect one' and maybe the mastic when on a little too heavy. BUT a month after starting, it's done, and done well (even if I do have to say so myself). Actually a number of people saw it over the holidays and were incredibly impressed.

I just wanted you folks to know that you are doing a great service and have been an invaluable help to me. I'm planning to darken the grout with a sealer you folks had suggested in a different thread.

Thank you again and again--especially since a 'pro' had quoted me $1500 for a job which took 4 days off and on and cost me less than $100 for materials and tools.

Thanks Jamie

Your welcome Jamie. We really appreciate the feedback.

You know what this means though? EVERYBODY is going to be asking you to do their tile work now.

Carter L. Glass
Administrator

Question one is, can I tile on top of a formica countertop directly or do I have to put on backerboard? Second is, how do I remove the existing tile from the backsplash without tearing up the wall surface behind it? When it was put up it was done directly on the sheetrock wall without backerboard.
Thanks for your help.

I just tore out my tile backsplash with the idea of putting a different one in and extending it up to the bottom of cabinets. I too had the same concern and was able to remove the tile and green board behind it without tearing up the drywall. After knocking off the tiles, I just used a heavy duty spackel knife and scraped behind the board to break away the glue. You just have to be careful not to dig to deep behind the board. Hope this helps.

I have a question similar to Bill about sticking tiles to mortar over sheetrock but I feel sure there is only one coat of paint on the sheetrock, what would I have to do to sheetrock to begin?

Wash your walls with trisodium phosphate (be certain to wear rubber gloves. Rinse then let dry overnight.
Set your tyle with mapei type 1 mastic. Use an unsanded grout for joints less than 1/8 inch. Sanded for 1/8 or larger. Seal your grout after it cures (aprox 21 days) with a penetrating sealer. Caulk tile where it meets your countertop.(I use hydroments sanded caulk in a variety of colors. A bit spendy but a great product). Take your time and have fun. It will look great and you did it yourself! (as tilemen go small jobs like a backsplash requiring several trips get to be very costly for a custumer unless we are doing other work in a house at the same time. A small splash behind a stove for example would cost you (100.00)(my minimum) Labor. Thats about 8-9 s/f of tile or aprox (12.00) a s/f to lay it.) I think you get the picture. Todd-Tilewerks

The easiest way to dress up the plain white backsplash is to pop off the undesired trim, with a dremel tool and tile cutting bit, cut out a few tiles every couple of feet, and replace them with decorative tiles. Or you could cut out a row of tiles and replace them with a different color for a border effect. And you would'nt have to replace the whole thing.

My husband messed up our backsplash, the only way I could get the tile off was to break it, which then tore up the sheetrock. Should we just repalce the sheetrock and start over or also put up a backerboard. I made him stop the job before he finished. The only place we had to replace the sheetrock was behind the stove and one row of cabinets. Please help.

Sandra,

Yes, damaged sheetrock should be torn out and replaced. You can replace it with a ceramic tile backerboard or (if it is a dry area) sheetrock.

Thinking that the backsplash doesn't get a lot of moisture, I thought I would tile directly over it. On the counter I am using backer board over exterior plywood, of course.

But reading some of these emails, I'm convinced that it would be conservative to put in backboard.

However, we are tiling to the ceiling, and there is a large window about 8" above the sink.

I can't imagine that I really need to replace the sheetrock anywhere other than the 8" space under the window (about 52" wide). Well, behind the stove, even though I turn on the exhaust fan when cooking.

Your comments?

P.S. Great site

Any advice?

Unless you're showing signs of rot anywhere, I don't kow that you'd have to replace ANY of the sheetrock. Just tile over it. One thing you might want to do, however, especially behind the stove, is wash the walls with a good grease cutter. Even with the vent fan, you most likely have atleast some film above the stove. Remove that, and you're ready to tile, again, so ling as there's no sign of rot.

Hi, I just bought an older home and the countertop in the kitchen has GOT to go! I was wanting to tile my countertop. I currently have an old countertop I think that is lamenated. Do I need to first tear up my existing countertop and then start the tiling process, or can I begin tiling on top of my existing countertop? Any help would certainly be appreciated!

Thanks!

I have a question. Can I make a backsplash for my stove out of glass pieces? Can I mix tile pieces and glass pieces? I want irregular pieces. I don't have any nippers. Where can I find these irregular pieces. I looked on Ebay and all I can find are the square ones. Thanks, Judith